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	<name>Spain &amp; Morocco</name>

	<description><![CDATA[<p>3-26 July 2004<br />by Brian Abbott</p>

<p><a href="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/">http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/</a></p>

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    <td><img src="http://brianabbott.net/images/fes_tn.jpg" width="75" height="75" alt="Tannery in Fes" /></td>

    <td>My trip to Spain and Morocco was made possible by the International Planetarium Society conference in Valencia. I attended this conference for work, then toured Barcelona, Casablanca, Marrakech, Fes, and Madrid. My traveling companion was my friend Pram, who was on a world tour and came down from Amsterdam to meet me.</td>

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		<name>New York to Valencia</name>

		<description><![CDATA[<p>I took a night flight to Madrid that left JFK at about 8 PM. We arrived in Madrid the following morning where I had a short lay-over before flying on to Valencia.</p>

<p>I was shocked by the quality of the food in the Madrid airport. Puts many restaurants in the U.S. to shame and is an indication of how complacent the average U.S. consumer about the quality of the food available to them.</p>

<p>3-4 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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		<name>Valencia, Spain</name>

		<description><![CDATA[<p>4-9 July 2004</p>

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    <td><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/images/valencia-icon.jpg" width="75" height="110" alt="El Micalet, Valencia" /></td>

    <td><p>Val&egrave;ncia is the third largest city in Spain with about 800,000 inhabitants. I was traveling there for a <a href="http://www.cac.es/ips2004/">meeting</a> of the <a href="http://www.ips-planetarium.org/">International Planetarium Society</a>, which worked well as the cost of traveling to Europe and back could be expensed. I flew directly to Madrid from JFK in New York and then took a smaller flight to Val&egrave;ncia, which took about an hour.</p>

<p>Our conference was in <a href="http://www.cac.es/">la Ciudad de las Artes y las Ci&egrave;ncies</a> and occupied much of my time. This afforded few opportunities to explore the city center, which is about a 15-minute bus ride away. However, by the end of the conference, I was making more of an effort to venture into town and explore the bars and discos by night.</p>

<p>Val&egrave;ncia does seem to be heading in the right direction, though one still sees the sales pitch in the tourist brochures that suggest some level of desperation. Val&egrave;ncia remains overshadowed by the more popular tourist destinations of Madrid and Barcelona. Still, Val&egrave;ncia is a nice city and, as it was my first exposure to Spain, I enjoyed the new food, the Spanish people, and the culture.</p></td>

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			<description><![CDATA[<p>My first interaction with a Spaniard. The communication was kept to a bare minimum.</p>

<p>4 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<description><![CDATA[<p>Home in Valencia was a nice hotel, paid for by work. The food was excellent and the rooms were nice.</p>

<p>Pram joined me on a few days after I arrived. He was supposed to get in Wednesday, but something happened with his train and he ended up getting in late.</p>]]></description>

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<p>5, 7, 9 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>L&apos;Umbracle</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>A <a href="http://www.cac.es/umbracle/index.php">garden promenade</a> offers views of the of the planetarium and the science museum from above. The gardens have many palm trees, cacti, and flowering shrubs and vines. The entire length of the garden, which is about two-tenths of one mile, is covered in this barred design, which I hope will be covered by vines and purple flowers (such as you see here) one day. Since umbr&iacute;o or umbroso means shade, I expect there will be some of that here when the flora have time to mature.</p>

<p>4 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<description><![CDATA[<p>This is the planetarium in the <a href="http://www.cac.es/">City of the Arts and Sciences</a>. Inside is a sphere and surrounding it is an outdoor space (when the windows on each side are folded to their open position) where we ate dinner. The food was wonderful and the space is impressive.</p>

<p>4 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Museu de las Ciencies Principe Felipe</name>

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<p>4 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<description><![CDATA[<p>A shot of the science museum and the planetarium in the extreme left part of the frame.</p>

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<p>4 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<description><![CDATA[<p>Ryan and I took a short trip into town, just to get a lay of the land.</p>

<p>5 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Ayuntamiento - City Hall</name>

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<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R4-005-1.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="Ayuntamiento" /></p>

<p>5 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Palau de las Arts</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>The nearly complete Palace of the Arts was perhaps my favorite of all the buildings in the City of the Arts and Sciences. The sweeping arc that hangs above the giant theater is a pleasure to look at. I'm not too sure what's going on with the lower half of the building though. Inside will be an 1,800 seat theater accompanied by a 2,100 seat outdoor theater. I would like to have seen the inside of this place.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R4-035-16.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Palau de las Arts" /></p>

<p>5 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Walk to the Old Square</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Ryan and I came back to explore town on a slow conference day. We had lunch at a nice outdoor cafe, wandered into the Cathedral, climbed to the top of the tower (El Micalet), and then returned to the conference.</p>

<p>7 July 2004</p>

<p>Pram and I had some time to kill before jumping on the train to Barcelona. We walked over to the old square, ran into Miguel, Pram's friend, and then walked to the train station.</p>

<p>9 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>View From El Micalet</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Ryan and I climbed the 200 steps for a view of Val&egrave;ncia and the Plaza de la Reina below. I was surprised to see parking below the square. One reads about these squares being centuries old, then you see a parking garage below them. This is a common scene in Spain, though, and a smart use of space. This square was the heart of old Val&egrave;ncia before the city expanded in the 19th century.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R4-017-7.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="View from El Micalet" /></p>

<p>Ryan posing with Valencia (background). The Mediterranean Sea is visible between buildings on the horizon. The bells are right beside and below us. They are very proud of their <a href="http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide-2894110-miguelete_el_valencia-i">bells</a>, listing each of them on the ticket along with their weight and year of acquisition. The oldest is Jaime which dates from 1440; the heaviest is Miguel-Vicente which weighs in at 11,000 kilograms (that's over 24,000 pounds for us non-metric folks!). The tower's total height is 70 meters (230 feet) to the tippy-top.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R4-019-8.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Ryan on El Micalet" /></p>

<p>Looking toward the City of the Arts and Sciences. The Palace of the Arts and the Museum of the Sciences are seen in the distance, center frame. Farther are the shipyards on the Med. My hotel is among the cluster of taller buildings to the right of the City of the Arts and Sciences.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R4-015-6.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Val&egrave;ncia from El Micalet" /></p>

<p>7 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Alabaster Windows</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>I was surprised by the alabaster windows in this cathedral. If you look closely, you can see the dark imperfections in the thinly-carved sheets of stone (barely detectable in this photo). This produces a bright, airy feeling inside which I found to be pleasant, as opposed to stained glass windows that, while beautiful, keep the inside quite dark.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R4-021-9.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Alabaster Windows" /></p>

<p>7 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Redonda Plaza</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We stumbled into this small, charming market. It is dark and quiet and only cats are stirring. This round plaza looks as if it's been around for centuries.</p><p>7 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Cafe Lunch</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Ryan and I ate lunch at a little cafe here. We are still learning Spanish as we go, so ordering is limited to things we know. Jamon for the most part. We sat outside and had a nice lunch and a beer or two. They say San Miguel has formaldehyde in it, but I don't taste it.</p><p>7 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Sant Vicent</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>This shady street is mostly filled with stores and boutiques.</p><p>7 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Horrifying</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>I was disappointed to see a McDonalds here in the midst of the old section in Valencia.</p><p>7 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>The Cathedral</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>This is the entrance to the cathedral, studded with more guys atop columns. This entrance was most unusual for a cathedral, for it was quite small and humble. I later discovered the main entrance on the other side, and it all made sense. Still, this facade was beautiful and exotic compared to the Gothic cathedrals I am accustomed to.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R4-013-5.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="The Cathedral" /></p>

<p>7 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>La Guerra</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We went to this bar a couple times. Guerra means "war." This is a 4-story bar and club. A great time was had.</p><p>8 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Penguins</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Inside the Antarctic area, where the Humboldt Penguins hang out. Not too much action in the pen today. On the other side of the penguins are the large white beluga whales in the Arctic area.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R4-031-14.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="The Penguins" /></p>

<p>8 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>L&apos;Oceanografic</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<pFrom the outside, <a href="http://www.cac.es/oceanografic/index.php">L'Oceanogr&agrave;fic</a> is a hodgepodge of structures that work well together (see the <a href="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/images/loceanografic-map.jpg">large map</a>). Pictured is the entry building and in the background, a spherical cage to hold the wetlands, where fish, reptiles, and birds all coexist.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R4-033-15.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="L'Oceanogr&agrave;fic" /></p>

<p>8 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Inside the Museum of the Sciences</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>On the last day of the conference, I toured some museums with two fellow planetarians from Wisconsin. This is the main hallway inside the museum; to the right are the exhibit floors. This is a very hands-on museum. Our favorite was the Matrix-like photo shoot where you get in the center of a ring that's equipped with a camera every meter. The woman tells you to go on the count of three and then the cameras start snapping in sequence. After, you get to see the whole 360-degree shot, Matrix style. Chris (on the right) had the best pose with his legs up and his arm out like a fierce cat. The woman taking the pictures was amused and laughed for some time at our picture.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R4-025-11.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="Inside the Museum of the Sciences" /></p>

<p>8 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Venial Discoteca</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>One of the dance clubs we frequented is somewhere near here on the Quart.</p>

<p>They give you receipts without fail and I kept a few, giving witness to the debauchery. They list 3:01 AM and 4:10 AM on the 8th, and 4:09 AM on the 9th.</p><p>8 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Plaza del Ayuntamiento</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We're still on the plaza... Now we're looking the other way toward the post office, with the odd metal tower.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R4-045-21.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Plaza del Ayuntamiento" /></p>

<p>9 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Plaza de Toros</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Pram and the obligatory bull fighting ring.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R4-049-23.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Plaza de Toros" /></p>

<p>9 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>The Train Station</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>The Estaci&oacute;n del Norte, a grand station with a huge canopy roof behind its main facade (pictured). The building has many great ornaments including <a href="http://www.stz-rottenburg.de/biblio/Bildarchiv/2_Bilder_deutsch/Bilder_imagemaps/VALENCIA_Bild_AAH.htm">bright, ceramic oranges</a>. Inside, security was tight after the Madrid train bombings last year.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R4-047-22.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="The Train Station" /></p>

<p>9 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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		<name>Train to Barcelona</name>

		<description><![CDATA[<p>From Val&egrave;ncia, Pram and I took the train to Barcelona. It was an agonizing, four-hour trip because we were sitting in front of obnoxious people.</p>

<p>9 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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		<name>Barcelona, Spain</name>

		<description><![CDATA[<p>9-15 July 2004</p>

<table>

  <tr>

    <td><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/images/barcelona-icon.jpg" width="75" height="110" alt="La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona" /></td>

    <td><p>I became enamored with Barcelona's architecture, its friendly people, its rich history, and its insane nightlife. I hope to return soon to this city by the sea.</p>

<p>We stayed in a <a href="http://www-ma2.upc.es/~geomc/events/socg2002/infoHGD.html">hotel</a> right off the <a href="http://www.vfks.de/treffen2003/barcelona/bb/Image37.html">Plaza de Catalunya</a>, the city's main square. I tried to strike a balance between seeing the city and going out and partying. I partly believe that I can party anywhere, so why should I travel 1,000 miles to do so. On the other hand, I also think this is the best way meet the locals. I tried to be somewhat disciplined though, getting in before 7 in the morning. One could easily stay out later; I believe Pram rolled in around 9 or 10 some mornings. </p>

<p>Our typical day involved waking up&#8212;early if we didn't stay out too late, early afternoon if we did&#8212;and seeing some sights. We ate a late lunch (the Spanish way) with a few courses and some wine, then continued to see the sights until it was time to get ready for the evening. Around midnight, one goes to the bars for a nice chat with new friends; the discos come to life around 3 A.M. My nocturnal tendencies were completely (and overly) satisfied here.</p></td>

  </tr>

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			<name>L3 Subway to the Hotel</name>

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<p>9 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Hotel - Gran Ducat</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We stayed here while in Barcelona. It was a nice hotel. Centrally located, decent food, tiny rooms. Of course, being a New Yorker, I am comfortable with that.</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Walk to Barri Gotic, La Rambla, and L&apos;Eixample</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Pram and I took our first stroll around town and into the old part of town, the Barri Gotic.</p>

<p>10 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>El Corte Ingles</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>The huge Spanish department store, "The English Court." We bought our plane tickets to Morocco here a few days before we flew there. Always a madhouse, packed with people.</p>

<p>10 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<description><![CDATA[<p>As wonderful as this viaduct looks, it is actually a 1920s add-on. This overpass is on Calle de Bisbe and connects the Casa de los Can&oacute;nigos, built in the 15th century, with the Generalitat. What I'm curious about is why, after these two buildings sat side by side for centuries, was there a need to connect them one story above the ground. Curious...</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R4-E076.jpg" width="294" height="450"  alt="Viaduct" /></p>

<p>10 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Hookers and Drunks</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We strolled through the narrow alleys and streets of the Barri Gòtic, where the ghost of ancient Barcelona lingers. Here we discovered where the hookers dally with the drunks of Barcelona. Upon discovering this, we decided to seek a more beaten path and went back to La Rambla.</p>

<p>10 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>On Las Ramblas</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Las Ramblas is a wide avenue that runs from the seaside into the relatively newer parts of town in L'Eixample. The name comes from the arabic word for sand, <em>ramla</em>. This avenue traces the path of a river that was dry and sandy in the summer. Merchants would use the dry riverbed to conduct business and sell their wares until the mid 1300s, when it was paved and became a more permanent marketplace. Today the avenue is divided into two-lanes for cars in each direction that surround the wide walkway up the middle. On the walkway are newsstands, cafes, and a lot of pet shops (where birds are the big seller). Each section has a speciality and is known for something different. Along the way are many street performers, such as this tree guy behind Pram. Many of the performers strive for a motionless day, emulating the stone-carved monuments in Barcelona, but the tree guy would move his hands and head in slow-motion as a tree might. He was an original.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R1-007-2.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="On Las Ramblas" /></p>

<p>10 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Punto BCN Bar</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Pram and I popped in here for a late afternoon drink. I wrote a bit in my journal and he wrote some postcards. This is a nice, clean bar with some good-looking patrons!</p>

<p>After a couple drinks, we headed back to the hotel to get cleaned up for an evening of going out.</p>

<p>10 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Sweet Bar</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We ate dinner nearby at about 10 PM, then went to this bar at about midnight. It was packed with people; midnight is primetime for the bars here in Barcelona.</p>

<p>We started talking to an older Texan from Dallas and his younger, good-looking Pakistani partner.</p>

<p>10 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Cafe Dietrich</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Cafe Dietrich is best known for their weekend show. It begins somewhere around 1 or 2 in the morning so people begin piling into the place after 1 AM.</p>

<p>People gathered beside a glassed-in room to see the upcoming show, but it never happened. I just talked with people on the periphery rather than inject myself into the dense crowd.</p>

<p>Pram and I met this Asian guy from Boston and a Swiss who works for HP in Barcelona who fancied Pram.</p>

<p>By 3 AM, Dietrich is closing. This is about when the discos begin ramping up, so we went to this place Metro a few blocks away with our new-found friends.</p>

<p>10 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Metro Disco</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Metro is one of the most popular discos in town. We arrived sometime after 3 AM (on the 11th actually) and it was just starting to come to life. One person from San Sebastian took an immediate liking to me: nice , but not my type. We talked for over an hour.</p>

<p>By about 5:30 I began hunting for Pram and finally tracked him down. Told him I was heading back; he stayed for awhile longer.</p>

<p>When I stepped outside, there was a thunderstorm. It wasn't raining too hard, though, so I made my way back to the hotel. Actually, I was hoping I knew where the hotel was. Even after a night of partying, I still made it back without getting lost.</p>

<p>After the exuberance of this night, I actually had the energy to write in my journal when I got home. But, by 6:45, I decided to go to sleep. I think Pram rolled in about 9 this morning.</p>

<p align="right">10 July 2004</p>

<p>Revisited the Metro on Monday night. I met someone from Paris and he and I talked about politics, Morocco, and Spain.</p>

<p>Metro has a show this evening, but it was to crowded, not to mention the fact that I couldn't understand much of what was being said. I left the crowd behind and ran into Pascal, Ryan's friend from Valencia, how surprising!</p>

<p>I left about 5:15 and found Pram home when I got there.</p>

<p align="right">12 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>L4 Subway to Sagrada Familia</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>A short subway ride up to Verdaguer and walked over to the Sagrada Familia Cathedral.</p>

<p>11 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Ate lunch here</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>After getting off the train, we ate lunch here. There are not many choices in this mainly residential neighborhood, plus it is Sunday and many places are closed. What choices there are do not look great.</p>

</p>This outdoor tapas restaurant was no exception. Everything was too salty for me.</p>]]></description>

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			<name>La Sagrada Familia</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Opinions vary widely on the Sagrada Fam&iacute;lia cathedral and its architect, Antoni Gaud&iacute; i Cornet. Born in 1852, Gaud&iacute; started the cathedral in 1882 and had not completed half of the marvelous temple before being run over by a street car in 1926. As for my opinion, I wholeheartedly love it and, while it may not be easy to compare to other cathedrals, it certainly can stand alone as a magnificent work of art.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R1-E001.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="La Sagrada Fam&iacute;lia" /></p>

<p>Here are a couple post cards I picked up:</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/images/sagrada2.jpg" width="416" height="571" alt="La Sagrada Familia Postcard Picture" /></p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/images/sagrada1.jpg" width="366" height="241" alt="La Sagrada Familia Postcard Picture" /></p>

<p>11 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>The Passion Facade</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>The Passion Facade of La Sagrada Fam&iacute;lia was completed after Gaud&iacute;'s death by architect Jordi Bonet and sculptor Josep Subirachs. Plans for the cathedral were mostly destroyed during the Spanish Civil War, when many cathedrals and churches were burnt. Thankfully, this cathedral survived, but Gaud&iacute;'s workshop was burned and his tomb in the cathedral's crypt was vandalized. Architects are now combining what remains from Gaud&iacute;'s original plans with their own styles to complete the massive project. Sponsors hope that the cathedral will be completed by the centenary of Gaud&iacute;'s death in 2026.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R1-051-24.jpg" width="450" height="294"  alt="The Passion Facade" /></p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R1-039-18.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="The Kiss of Judas" /></p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R1-041-19.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="The Passion Facade Entrance" /></p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R1-045-21.jpg" width="294" height="450"  alt="Passion Facade People" /></p>

<p>11 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Cathedral Interior</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>The stained glass in La Sagrada Fam&iacute;lia is very modern in its colors and forms. While I'm used to seeing stories depicted in the glass, here there seem to be no discernible characters or stories. There are some words, though, in the smaller circular windows.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R1-015-6.jpg" width="294" height="450"  alt="Stained Glass" /></p>

<p>The nave of the cathedral. Gaud&iacute;'s architectural vision was inspired by nature, exhibited here by the concrete forest with a partially complete ceiling. Note the balcony at the bottom.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R1-037-17.jpg" width="294" height="450"  alt="The Nave" /></p>

<p>The interior of the cathedral is completely filled with scaffolding. This was an amazing sight in and of itself. The looming Mother Teresa is a sign for a photographic exhibit on her life and work, which was also quite moving.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R1-017-7.jpg" width="294" height="450"  alt="Scaffolding" /></p>

<p>11 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>The Nativity Facade</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>The Facade of the Nativity was completed in Gaud&iacute;'s vision (he had completed one of the four towers before his death). Each of the three facades of the cathedral will have four towers, each tower dedicated to one of the 12 apostles. Thus far, the Facade of the Nativity and the Facade of the Passion are complete, the Facade of the Glory, the main entrance on Calle Mallorca, will someday sprout another four towers. In the center will be a massive, 575-foot tower symbolizing Christ.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R1-021-9.jpg" width="294" height="450"  alt="Gaud&iacute;'s Nativity Facade" /></p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R1-025-11.jpg" width="450" height="294"  alt="Nativity Facade Center" /></p>]]></description>

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			<name>Walk to the Cathedral, the Park, and the Beach</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Today we will see the Barcelona cathedral, the main city park, and walk on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea.</p>

<p>13 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Barcelona Cathedral</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>The Gothic cathedral in Barcelona is said to be the darkest cathedral in Europe, and it is indeed dark inside even with help from artificial lighting. This beautiful cathedral boasts, among other things, to have the crucifix from the mast of Don Juan's ship from the Battle of Lepanto in 1571.</p>

<p>13 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Cathedral Cloister</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>This is the green, medieval cloister built in 1385. The geese have been here as long as anyone can remember. When my grandfather visited this cathedral in 1976, he too snapped a photo of the gaggle, which was presumably composed of elder relatives. The fountain is covered in moss with palms and plants surrounding this little oasis.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R2-015-6.jpg" width="294" height="450"  alt="Cloister Plus Geese" /></p>

<p>We entered the cathedral from the side and came upon this beautiful cloister. Here, one can peer through the palms to see the great octagonal cathedral tower.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R2-017-7.jpg" width="294" height="450"  alt="Gothic Cathedral" /></p>

<p>13 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Cathedral Roof</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>The view east from the Cathedral rooftop terrace. The cathedral is in the Barri G&ograve;tic, said to be the best example of a medieval city in Europe. Two things struck me from this rooftop view. While I know the church is more powerful in Spain than in America, the number of cathedrals and churches within blocks of this mighty cathedral is incredible. I was also surprised by the presence of TV antennas. Clearly, satellite and cable has not hit it big here, further adding to Barcelona's charm.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R2-019-8.jpg" width="450" height="294"  alt="Cathedral Terrace View East" /></p>

<p>The grand chapel tower, thankfully not encased in scaffolding as the entire front facade is.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R2-023-10.jpg" width="294" height="450"  alt="The Cathedral Roof and Tower" /></p>

<p>Toward the north, La Sagrada Fam&iacute;lia is a conspicuous feature of the skyline. In the distance are the foothills, surrounding the city like a Hollywood stage set.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R2-027-12.jpg" width="450" height="294"  alt="Terrace View North" /></p>

<p>13 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Cathedral Apse (interior)</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>The front of the cathedral with the altar and the crypt below. In the alabaster crypt is Saint Eul&agrave;lia, a 14-year-old girl who was martyred in the 4th century. The oldest part of this church is the right transept, dating from 1298. Before this mighty cathedral was built, there sat two other churches on this site. The first was destroyed when al-Mansur raided the city in 985. The second, a Romanesque church, was built by Count Ram&oacute;n Berenguer I, who campaigned against the Moors in the 11th century. Two doorways survive from this church.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R2-035-16.jpg" width="294" height="450"  alt="The Cathedral Apse" /></p>

<p>13 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Palau de la Musica</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>This is the Modernista-style music palace. Built in 1908, this ornate building is crammed onto the narrow Sant Pere M&eacute;s Alt alleyway. Because the street is so narrow, it's impossible to get a picture of the entire facade without attaching a fisheye lens to your camera.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R2-005-1.jpg" width="294" height="450"  alt="Palau de la M&uacute;sica" /></p>

<p>With its mixture of red brick, wild tile mosaics, and this figurehead sculpture on the corner, this building could be considered a work of art or an assault on the eye. I like the flashy look, myself. I won't soon forgive myself for chopping off the top of the corner sculpture though.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R2-009-3.jpg" width="294" height="450"  alt="Palau de la M&uacute;sica" /></p>

<p>13 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Arc de Triomf</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>A formal entrance to the Parc de la Ciutadella, the arch was built for the 1888 Universal Exhibition. The eclectic arch is adorned with four crowns and made from ceramic brick. Beyond the arch is the Passeig Llu&iacute;s Companys, which leads into the large park.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R2-039-18.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="Arc de Triomf" /></p>

<p>13 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Parc de la Ciutadella</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>One of the main entrances to the park features this lovely elevated vista above a large fountain. This park was a sore spot for Catalans until it was used for the Universal Exhibition. When Philip V conquered Catalunya in 1714, he moved the university that once stood here out of Barcelona and built a massive fortification. In 1869, the land was sold back to the city. Part of it became this park and the rest was used for housing to finance the razing of the fortification's walls.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R2-045-21.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Parc de la Ciutadella" /></p>

<p>13 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Olympic Village</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>This is the Olympic Village for the '92 Summer Games. They are trying revitalize the area and parts of it were alive, but parts were vacant with weeds growing.</p>

<p>13 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Beer on the Beach</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We took a rest here at this little beach-side cafe. We drank a beer while looking over the Mediterranean. I wrote in my journal a bit and Pram wrote some postcards.</p>

<p>13 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Falafal</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We had a bite to eat at a Middle Eastern restaurant near here. There is a beach town feel in this area, with a lot of kids and ice cream shops.</p>

<p>13 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Lazy Travelers</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We were so tired after our day of walking that we decided to take the train home from here. It is not too long a walk, but we were exhausted.</p>

<p>13 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>L4 Subway Home</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We decided to take the subway home after a long day of walking.</p>

<p>13 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Casa Batllo Exterior</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Another Gaud&iacute;'s masterpiece, the Batll&oacute; house was given a facelift in 1904 by Gaud&iacute; at the request of its resident, Josep Batll&oacute;. There is something very "Grateful Dead" about this facade.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-011-4.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="Casa Batllo" /></p>

<p>Had to get a picture of one of these Smart Cars before I left, what better background... If only these damn tourists would get out of the way!</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-013-5.jpg" width="450" height="294"  alt="The Smart Car" /></p>

<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Casa Batllo Interior</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>I'm having trouble deciding if I like this place or not. Could I live in this house? I like the many inventive functional designs, the ventilation slats in the wood and the use of light, but I'm not sure I like the overall style. I wonder if Se&ntilde;or Batll&oacute; did.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R2-051-24.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="A Hallway from the Dining Room" /></p>

<p>In the center of the house is the light well, a giant sky light that spans all floors of the house. As the floors reach to the roof, the window size shrinks allowing less light in the upper floors, thereby keeping them cooler.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-005-1.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="The Light Well" /></p>

<p>A hallway in the attic; Gaud&iacute; did love the parabola.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-007-2.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="The Attic" /></p>

<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Chimneys</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>The chimneys, too, are covered in Gaud&iacute;'s broken tile mosaics.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-009-3.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="The Chimneys" /></p>

<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>The Terrace Entrance</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>The large tiled terrace leads out from the dining room. Much of the decoration on the terrace takes the form of tile mosaics or exotic chain-link fencing.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R2-E026.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="The Terrace Entrance" /></p>

<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>L3 Subway to Parc Guell</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>After the Casa Batllo, we took the subway up to Vallcarca near the Parc Guell</p>

<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>A walk in Parc Guell</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Many areas of Parc Guell were designed by Gaudi. The park sits atop a hill, providing a grand view of the city.</p>

<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-017-7.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Park G&uuml;ell" /></p>

<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-015-6.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="Casa-Museu Gaud&iacute;" /></p>

<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Park Guell View</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>The view of Barcelona from the terrace in Park G&uuml;ell. In the foreground below is the park's entrance with Gaud&iacute;'s gatehouses. The towers (and cranes) of the Sagrada Fam&iacute;lia are left of center. The two high-rises by the water are near the Vila Ol&iacute;mpica, where the athletes were housed for the 1992 summer games.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-019-8.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Park G&uuml;ell View" /></p>

<p>From the terrace at Park G&uuml;ell, looking east over the city and to the sea.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/PRAM-R1-34.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Barcelona View" /></p>

<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Under the Terrace</name>

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<p>Directly under the terrace is this great area filled with wide, Doric columns. The ceiling is tile mosaic and decorated where columns are absent. Inside, there was a man playing classical Spanish guitar and people resting from the afternoon sun.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/PRAM-R1-36.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Hall of 100 Columns" /></p>

<p>Under the terrace are more Gaud&iacute; creations, including this surreal scene. Made from broken rocks at this site, the natural forms of the broken rock or tile emphasize Gaud&iacute;'s influence: nature.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-021-9.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Under the Terrace" /></p>

<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Park Guell Entrance</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>One of the gatehouses complete with Gaud&iacute;'s double cross and mushroom-like cap. I wonder which came first, the gingerbread house or Gaud&iacute;?</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-023-10.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="Park Entrance" /></p>

<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Bus to the Funicular</name>

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<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Caio, Pelo</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Some bratty Italian kid said this to me as he was going down the hill. Pram laughed, having translated ("Hi, hairy") in his head.</p>

<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Tram tickets?</name>

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<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Bus down the mountain</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We took the bus down to John F. Kennedy Plaza, where we picked up the train home.</p>

<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Train to the Hotel</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Took a commuter train directly to Catalunya, the large square near our hotel.</p>

<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>4 Cats Restaurant</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>This is a wonderful restaurant and was a great place to have our last meal in Barcelona. We have to start for the airport tomorrow morning before sunrise.</p>

<p>14 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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		<name>Barcelona to Casablanca</name>

		<description><![CDATA[<p>We flew from Barcelona to Madrid, where we jumped on another plane for Casablanca. As we taxied to the terminal in the bus, many of us saw a suitcase sitting on the tarmac that had fallen out of a bag carrier train. Laughter spread throughout the bus, but we all realized that some poor bastard will do without their clothes tonight.</p>

<p>15 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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		<name>Casablanca, Morocco</name>

		<description><![CDATA[<p>15-16 July 2004</p>

<table>

  <tr>

    <td><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/images/casablanca-icon.jpg" width="75" height="110" alt="Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca" /></td>

    <td><p>From Barcelona, we took a plane to Madrid then connected to Casablanca. The flight from Madrid to Casablanca is about an hour and a half, but Morocco is two hours behind Spain. Now, instead of 6 hours ahead of New York, we were only 4 hours ahead. </p>

<p>Once we arrived at the airport, we rented a car and drove into the city. This city is almost impossible to navigate as there aren't many street signs and the entire city naming system is undergoing <a href="http://french.about.com/library/graphics/streetsign.jpg">arabization</a>. Even Royal decrees have played a part in swapping names around town. Add to this confusion the chaotic driving and the fact that we were leading a two-car caravan filled with people we had met on the plane, and it quickly became a nightmare. In the end, we picked up someone off the street who, after some confusion, ably led us to our <a href="http://www.traveltop10.com/top%2010/crowne86.htm">hotel</a>. I'd always heard people in Morocco were extremely generous; however, we were putting this to the test sooner than I'd hoped.</p>

<p>While I hate to disparage any place, both Pram and I did not care for Casablanca too much. So much so that within hours of arriving we canceled our second night and decided to head to Marrakech the following morning. But, Casablanca will forever be my first impression of the Muslim world. We spent the remains of our day on a long <a href="./images/casablancamap-path.jpg">walking tour</a>, from the Crowne Plaza to the medina, through Casablancan slums and around the glorious Hassan II Mosque, then back through the center of town.</p></td>

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			<name>Airport</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We landed in Morocco with only a hotel reservation in Casablanca. We had no car reservations, no maps, and no fixed plans for the rest of the week but for our flight back to Spain in one week.</p>

<p>We rented a car, got some gas, and began driving to Casablanca.</p><p>15 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Airport to Casablanca</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>It took us about an hour to reach (or, more accurately, find) our hotel&#8212;don't let the smooth path fool you, I have no idea where we were. Without much in the way of street signs, we finally resorted to asking a stranger on the street, who jumped in our car and guided us to the hotel. I was not comfortable with this, but Pram didn't seem to have a problem.</p>

<p>15 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Crowne Plaza Hotel (July 15)</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>This hotel is the pits. It smells, it's dirty, and the beds are crap. Perhaps it is a difference between standards between Spain and Morocco, Europe and Africa.</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Casablanca Walk</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Once we checked in and cleaned up, we took a walk around town. I had little idea what where we were going and what we were getting into.</p>

<p>15 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Lunch</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We were hungry so we found a cheap restaurant along this road. It was not the greatest food, but it was cheap. Pram used their bathroom and came back to reveal that it is simply a hole in the floor.</p><p>15 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Palace Mohammed V</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>The royal palace for King Mohammed V, who was the sultan when he was exiled to Madagascar by the French in 1953. France was trying to cope with a nationalist movement in Morocco and viewed Mohammed V as too sympathetic to the cause. Mohammed V returned two years later and on March 2, 1956, the French pulled out of Morocco. Mohammed V would become king in 1957 and prime minister in 1960 before dying suddenly a year later.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/PRAM-R2-1.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Palace Mohammed V" /></p>

<p>15 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Casablanca Post Office</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We stopped in here to mail some postcards. While Pram figured out how to get stamps, I was staring at the intricate interior of this great building. There is a fusion of French and Moorish styles in the architecture here.</p><p>15 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Hyatt Regency</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We stopped in here briefly to check out the restaurants and bars in case we needed a trust-worthy meal tonight. We were underwhelmed by the selections and its touristy nature; it seemed so out of place.</p><p>15 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Medina Entrance</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Entry to the Casablanca medina, a maze of streets and alleys that make up the oldest section of the city. We had no idea where we were going and did not know what this would be like, but we ventured in regardless. If a choice was before us, we always took the wider, more traveled street.</p>

<p>I can't say we were greeted with open arms in the medina. Around each corner we were stared at and we saw no other tourists. We were alone, and we stood out.</p><p>15 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Out of the Medina</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We finally found our way out of the medina, but as we were leaving, this crazy guy kept harassing us for money. We went to stand in front of the cafe on this corner where two police were sitting, but they did nothing. Finally, people from the medina came out and convinced him to leave us alone.</p>

<p>At no time was I frightened of this person, I was just frustrated that he would not leave us alone.</p><p>15 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Pit Stop</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Pram used the bathroom at this gas station. Once again, it was the hole in the floor variety. We were walking in a local neighborhood at this point. I felt pretty safe, but after coming out of the medina, where everyone was staring at us, perhaps the wide-open streets here give us the illusion of safety.</p><p>15 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Hassan II Mosque</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>This is the second-largest mosque in the world. It is, by far, the most pristine part of Casablanca, and perhaps all of Morocco. It holds 25,000 inside and another 80,000 outside on the plaza. Today is Thursday and the plaza is filled with couples taking a stroll before the day of prayer tomorrow. It is a peaceful place.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-031-14.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Hassan II Mosque Sahn" /></p>

<p>15 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Hassan II Mosque Plaza</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Pram on the grand plaza. The satellite image shows the ornate pattern formed by the paving stones.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-033-15.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Hassan II Mosque Plaza" /></p>

<p>15 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Hassan II - Another Shot</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>A distance shot of the Hassan II Mosque.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-035-16.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="Hassan II Mosque" /></p>

<p>15 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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		<name>Casablanca to Marrakech</name>

		<description><![CDATA[<p>Our drive from Casablanca to Marrakech was not too pleasant. We had the usual problem getting out of the Casablanca; adding at least 30 minutes spent lost in the streets of the city. We also stopped by the Casablanca airport to ask the car rental guys about the red, exclamation point light that appeared on our dashboard this morning (out of brake fluid, that's all).</p>

<p>I was hoping for a four-lane highway to Marrakech, but I was too optimistic; the road is two-lane and very crowded. While the distance is only 150 miles, it took about 4 hours, dodging <a href="http://www.ultimatejourney.com/TruckOverload.JPG">over-packed trucks</a>, buses with people hanging from the doors, <a href="http://www.travelnorthafrica.com/images/petitTaxi.jpg">taxis</a> going from town to town, and wealthy, Moroccan sports car drivers.</p>

<p>16 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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		<name>Marrakech, Morocco</name>

		<description><![CDATA[<p>16-19 July 2004</p>

<table>

  <tr>

    <td><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/images/marrakech-icon.jpg" width="75" height="110" alt="Spice Souq, Marrakech" /></td>

    <td><p>After hours of driving south from Casablanca, we came upon a huge congregation of adobe buildings in the distance. The haze hanging over the flat, sub-Saharan plain was daunting. I don't precisely know what my impression of Marrakech was before I arrived there, but it's safe to say that whatever they were, they were wholly wrong. Marrakech is not the European-like city of Casablanca, rather, it appears like an oversized oasis in the middle of the desert. The red-orange buildings reflect the hue of the surrounding earth and, aside from the minarets sprinkled around town, none appear to be over three stories tall.</p></td>

  </tr>

</table>]]></description>

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			<name>First hotel rejected</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Our first stop in Marrakech was at the Sheraton. The prices here were high, but more importantly it was out in the middle of nowhere.</p>

<p>The hotel is filled with French families who flew down to Marrakech to sit by a pool inside a compound.</p>

<p>We picked up a small map and now had our bearings.</p>

<p>16 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Pulled Over</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>This was the first time we were pulled over for speeding. Pram skillfully begged his way out of the 400 dirham (about 45 USD) fee, which must be paid on the spot.</p>

<p>Once in the city, We parked the car just inside the medina and walked around looking for a place to stay. At times we were guided, other times we were on our own. We ended up splurging for a nice <a href="http://www.lesjardinsdelakoutoubia.com/">resort hotel</a> that cost a lot, but was a nice refuge from the bustling city.</p>

<p>16 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>A First Look</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Having just left the cops, we drove toward the medina. Somehow we found this parking lot, where we decided to park the car and look for a place to stay on foot.</p>

<p>When we parked, the attendant came up and wanted to show us a few places. I was skeptical, but Pram was willing to see what happened.</p>

<p>He took us to a few Riads (Riads are the traditional Moroccan homes with interior gardens), but we wanted to keep looking.</p>

<p>Once we got back to the car, he tried to extract cash from us. We gave him some, but he demanded more. I, being naive, was trying to talk to this person; Pram just kept telling me to get in the car. I finally did and Pram did too. And they let us out of the parking lot without.</p>

<p>16 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Hotel - Les Jardins de la Koutoubia</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Our little lap of luxury on this trip. We splurged and stayed at this hotel while in Marrakech. I engaged the young (and more progressive) receptionist in discussions in world politics, the future of Morocco,  and what his everyday life is like. Really nice guy.</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Hotel Pics</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>This is a five-star hotel and the gardens in the courtyard were a welcoming sight after trouncing around the hot, dirty, noisy, smelly <a href="http://telsat.belspo.be/whp/Marrakech/marrakech-description.html">medina</a> all day.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R3-013-5.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="Our View" /></p>

<p>A fireplace in our hotel. Looks like the fires occasionally get too big.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/PRAM-R2-22.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="The Fireplace" /></p>

<p>Between the time we made a deal on the room and picked up our luggage, they had come in and prepared the room with scented air, made beds, and deposited these flower petals in our bathroom. Needless to say, the petals did not last long.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/PRAM-R2-5.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="Room Service" /></p>]]></description>

			<styleUrl>#photo</styleUrl>

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			<name>Koutoubia Mosque</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>This is one of the largest mosques in town with a 230-foot high minaret. It was built in the 1100s by the newly empowered <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Almohades">Almohads</a>, the ruling Muslim Berber dynasty whose kingdom encompassed much of modern day Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, and Muslim Spain. Each side of this minaret is different, providing a classic example of Moroccan and Andalucian architecture. The minaret used to be covered with painted plaster and colored tilework, but this has all been removed. All that appears from the modern era is the loudspeaker at the top that calls people to prayer five time a day.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-039-18.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="Koutoubia Mosque" /></p>

<p>17 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Behind Koutoubia Mosque</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Behind the mosque, heading toward its large plaza.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-041-19.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="Koutoubia Mosque" /></p>

<p>17 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Medina Walk</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Out to explore the Marrakech medina. I was hoping it was not like the Casablanca medina. It turned out to be completely different. The feeling was not one of hostility but a welcoming vibe in the narrow alleyways. </p>

<p>17 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Typical Medina Scene</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>This is a typical scene in the Marrakech medina. The medina here is relatively spread out compared to Casablanca and Fes and dates to the year 1060, when the city was founded.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-043-20.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="Street Scene: The Medina" /></p>

<p>17 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Side Street in the Medina</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>A nice connecting road between the Rue Riad Zitoun el-Qedim and Rue Riad Zitoun el-Jedid. We had parked the car and were wandering around through the medina looking for a place to stay when we came upon this nice scene. Both of us were hoping we could find our way back to the car. We did.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-045-21.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="The Medina" /></p>

<p>Directly opposite from the previous picture, we wanted a picture of this door. The man beside Pram moved to the side, but Pram motioned him to be in the picture if he liked. I have no idea what this place is. It could be religious or it could be a hotel.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/PRAM-R2-14.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="New-Found Friend" /></p>

<p>17 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Weaving</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Weaving in Morocco is always done by hand and always by boys and men. We had met a store owner nearby and he started talking to us. He had been to New York and, it turns out, his brother lives in New York and, as he put it, "never comes home." Always going to some place called Fire Island, he said. Pram and I just looked at one another. This guy took us to a house where we watched these boys and men weaving. He told us of the high profile fashion types who place orders with him. Even sent someone to another house to get an eight-by-ten of him with these famous fashion people. He seemed nice though. This was one of a half-dozen textile manufacturers we toured in Morocco. Imagine doing this 8 hours a day.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/PRAM-R2-15.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Weaving" /></p>

<p>17 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Souq (Market)</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We stumbled upon this spice market inside one of the many <em>qissarias</em>, or covered markets. It was so visually stunning that it stopped us dead in our tracks. Each of these conical towers is a powdered spice. Below them are buckets of incense (front), cinnamon, and mint tea, to name a few.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-047-22.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="Spice Souq" /></p>

<p>Pram gets a lesson in pouring spices.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/PRAM-R2-16.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Heapin' Spices" /></p>

<p>Now that Pram had had his picture taken, the spice man told me I had to have one too. He seemed like a nice enough guy, kept telling Pram and me he also does massage. Not exactly sure what his intentions were with that. The people of Morocco are not afraid of physical contact the way people are in the West. It is common to see men holding hands in the streets here. Boys all the way up to old men. It seems as though the one taboo here is for unmarried women and men to be physically intimate in public, but boys, no problem. It is also forbidden by law to have an unmarried man and woman share a hotel room, but two men, no problem. Of course, sex between men is punishable.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/PRAM-R2-17.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Brian and the Spice Man" /></p>

<p>17 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Ave Houmane el-Fetouaki</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>On the edge of the medina, where Avenue Houmane el-Fetouaki meets Rue Riad Zitoun el-Qedim is this small square. The main mode of transportation seems to be these <a href="http://www.elvisthefish.com/images/feature/morocco_speed.jpg">motor bikes</a>. These are the type you pedal to get going, then they go at a slow clip. <a href="http://www.stokely.org/20050105-morocco-marrakech/DPSCamera_0002.JPG">Taxis</a> are also very common in Morocco, as most people do not own cars.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-049-23.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Street Scene" /></p>

<p>17 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Street Scene</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>On Avenue Houmane el-Fetouaki looking toward Avenue Mohammed V and the Ville Nouvelle (the new part of town). Hauling goods by donkey is common in Morocco, shirtless guys on bikes are not&#8212;tourist. The trees a few blocks up are on the Place de Foucauld that leads into the main square, Djemma el-Fna.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-051-24.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Street Scene" /></p>

<p>17 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Mohammed V Walk</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>After our walk through the medina, we continued toward the "New Town" section up Avenue Mohammed V. Here it is less of a city than a spread out town. The streets are wide, the lots large.</p>

<p>17 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Rooftop View</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>I snapped this photo of the main square, called Djemma el-Fna, from our hotel roof. It's near sunset and the square is just getting going. Said to be one of the world's greatest spectacles, the Djemma el-Fna is a large square filled with activity, including food vendors that <a href="http://mirror-us-ga1.gallery.hd.org/_exhibits/places-and-sights/_more2002/_more11/Morocco-Marrakech-Djemaa-el-Fna-central-square-WL.jpg">send smoke into the air</a>, <a href="http://www.millhouse.nl/graphics/0310120.JPG">juice markets</a> with some of the best orange juice you'll taste, <a href="http://gallery.hd.org/_exhibits/places-and-sights/_more2002/_more11/Morocco-Marrakech-entertainers-in-main-square-WL.jpg">performing musicians</a> in outlandish costume, <a href="http://members.fortunecity.com/jeff_veitch/images/scans5/moroc18.jpg">snake charmers</a>, <a href="http://www.hanshendriksen.net/pics/mar/mar10.htm">performing monkeys</a>, and a large <a href="http://www.skiouros.net/voyages/2002/maroc/ma2002_17.html">crowd</a> to support it all. After passing through the square a few times, I came to dread it a bit. I took no pictures in the square as you are hounded the moment you get near any of the square dwellers. From this vantage point, I can hear the music of the snake charmers, the beating of drums, and a cheering crowd.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R5-E101.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Djemma el-Fna&#8212;The Square" /></p>

<p>After a hot, 100-degree day, the sun is finally setting. Not the best sunset I've seen, but pretty nonetheless. Here, from the roof of the hotel, one can see the neighboring buildings, many falling apart but with satellite dishes mounted on the roof. In a minute or two, when it's officially sunset, we'll be hearing from our neighbors praying over the loudspeakers again.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R3-005-1.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Koutoubia Mosque at Sunset" /></p>

<p>Sunset from the hotel roof. A telephoto lens would have been perfect here, but, alas, I have to settle for the 70-mm view. Sunset is when Marrakech wakes up. The streets become packed with people, the square turns into a hive of activity, and people jam the many caf&eacute;s in town. The daytime is too hot.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/ABBOTT0-R3-009-3.jpg" width="450" height="294" alt="Sunset" /></p>

<p>17 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Diamond Noir Friend</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We met this guy in the Diamond Noir night club. The Black Diamond disco is the only disco in town, and probably the only disco for hundreds of miles.</p>

<p>Yankees hats are seen everywhere in Morocco.</p>

<p><img src="http://brianabbott.net/travels/spainmorocco/photos/PRAM-R2-8.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="New-found Friend" /></p>

<p>16 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Hustled</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Encountered a hustler here as we walked back from the disco at 3 AM. He offered everything for 5 dirham, about 50 cents.</p>

<p>16 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>The Square (Djemma el-Fna)</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Said to be one of the world's greatest spectacles, the Djemma el-Fna is a large square filled with activity, including food vendors that <a href="http://mirror-us-ga1.gallery.hd.org/_exhibits/places-and-sights/_more2002/_more11/Morocco-Marrakech-Djemaa-el-Fna-central-square-WL.jpg">send smoke into the air</a>, <a href="http://www.millhouse.nl/graphics/0310120.JPG">juice markets</a> with some of the best orange juice you'll taste, <a href="http://gallery.hd.org/_exhibits/places-and-sights/_more2002/_more11/Morocco-Marrakech-entertainers-in-main-square-WL.jpg">performing musicians</a> in outlandish costume, <a href="http://members.fortunecity.com/jeff_veitch/images/scans5/moroc18.jpg">snake charmers</a>, <a href="http://www.hanshendriksen.net/pics/mar/mar10.htm">performing monkeys</a>, and a large <a href="http://www.skiouros.net/voyages/2002/maroc/ma2002_17.html">crowd</a> to support it all.</p>

<p>After passing through the square a few times, I came to dread it a bit. I took no pictures in the square as you are hounded the moment you get near any of the square dwellers. From this vantage point, I can hear the music of the snake charmers, the beating of drums, and a cheering crowd.</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Escape from the heat</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We walked up into the new town on the Ave Mohammed V. It was close to 100 degrees and the sun was roasting my arms and face.</p>

<p>We took some shelter in a sidewalk cafe near here. A policeman and his wife or girlfriend were sitting nearby on his lunch hour. We had some orange juice, water, and ice cream.</p>

<p>17 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>5 Prayers a Day</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Five times a day, prayers are broadcast over a loudspeaker from this mosque. One day we were sitting by the pool and the man cleared his throat in the middle of the prayer.</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Al Fassia Restaurant</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>Somewhere near here is Al Fassia, a restaurant we frequented. The food is all cooked by women.</p>

<p>We arrived at about 9 PM and the place was packed. We waited a half-hour for a table. We ended up sitting beside a French family. She spoke English, but her husband did not. Their kid fell asleep. We chatted for awhile about our travels around the world and what to see in Morocco.</p>

<p>17 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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			<name>Cafe de France</name>

			<description><![CDATA[<p>We were going to meet our friends from France, Gregory and his partner, at this cafe tonight, which has rooftop tables overlooking the menagerie in the square.</p>

<p>18 July 2004</p>]]></description>

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